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Sri Lanka is home to around 2,500 to 3,500 saltwater crocodiles, more than half of which are found in national parks. Though not as common here as the mugger crocodile, salties occur in estuaries and riverine systems on the western, southern and eastern coasts of the Indian Ocean island. An increase in the number of crocodile attacks on people has been recorded in recent years, despite some measures introduced to prevent conflict between man and croc.

The largest reptile on Earth, the saltwater croc (Crocodylus porosus), known as geta kimbula in Sinhalese, can grow to lengths surpassing 6 meters (20 feet). This prehistoric creature is the apex predator of riverine ecosystems, found in a vast region around the world, including Sri Lanka, India, to Papua New Guinea and the Indo–Pacific, all the way to Australia.

In Sri Lanka, they’re not as common as the mugger crocodile (Crocodylus palustris), also known as the marsh crocodile. Saltwater crocodiles are found in estuaries and riverine systems mainly on Sri Lanka’s south, west and eastern coasts. Sometimes they can even be found in urban areas such as the nation’s commercial capital, Colombo – moving around the canals and waterways in the city. Some specimens have been seen out at the ocean and even in locations such as suburban Dehiwala-Mount Lavinia, as the crocodiles move between rivers using the ocean as a connector.

In appearance, they are easily identifiable from the mugger crocodile. The head of the mugger is much wider, while the saltwater crocodile’s head tapers toward the snout. The neck of a saltwater croc or “saltie” doesn’t contain any prominent scales compared to the mugger. The mugger is usually greyish in colour, while the saltie has a yellowish hue on the body, especially the belly. The sides of the belly have rough scales similar to the texture of a jackfruit.

It’s in their temperament where the two species differ the most. Muggers are generally timid; only a few attacks on people have been recorded. In contrast, salties are aggressive and there are many cases of deaths recorded due to their attacking behaviour.

Fables about crocodiles swimming in the Nilwala River in southern Sri Lanka’s Matara district are legendary and have influenced both folk tales and folk songs. Of late, the Nilwala and the crocodiles that inhabit the river have been the subject of news, with people being attacked and killed by the riverside.

Such is the saltie’s unparalleled reputation, I took off to the island’s southern coast in search of these magnificent reptiles myself. With the help of local boatmen, I embarked on my first self-styled “crocodile safari” in 2016. The boat ride did not take too long to yield up the first saltie.

It was a small individual, rather shy, and went quickly underwater before we could draw close. We soon realized that there were many crocodiles hiding in the riverbanks and mangroves, mostly in plain sight, but they would quickly go underwater whenever we drew close to them, most of them semi-adults or juveniles.

Going further upriver, we were amazed at the vast variety of birdlife that formed part of this unique ecosystem, ranging from stork-billed kingfishers (Pelargopsis capensis), common kingfishers (Alcedo atthis), striated herons (Butorides striata) and purple herons (Ardea purpurea), to white-bellied fish eagles (Haliaeetus leucogaster), grey-headed fish eagles (Haliaeetus ichthyaetus) and many more.

The further upstream we went, the less populated it became, and there were some areas covered in fast reed beds with no humans in sight. It was in one such area that we came across a large male crocodile swimming across the river. This giant individual measured about 4.5 meters (15 feet) in length. He displayed his dominance over the river by swimming with his head and tail raised high above the water. It was amazing to witness this top predator of the river in its natural habitat, proud and strong. Being in a boat almost at the croc’s eye level gave me an uneasy feeling.

The boat people told me about an even bigger crocodile often seen in the Nilwala, more than 5.5 meters (18 feet) in length. Though we didn’t see him during my first tour, I continued to visit the river over the years and, on one occasion, came across this legendary reptile.

He’d crawled up to a riverbank to bask in the afternoon as crocs do, and could have easily been mistaken for a massive log, given his tremendous size and the colour camouflage. This croc was spellbinding, and I felt privileged to have seen such a giant croc, a rarity these days.

He was as wide as our boat, and as we approached closer, he slid calmly back into the water and disappeared, without trying to overpower us. During my many tours to Matara, I also came across many hatchlings, indicating a healthy population in this ecosystem. One tour up the river gave me a count of 21 individuals.

More croc attacks are being reported, but local people told me that 20 years ago this wasn’t the case. Boatmen have told me that they used to hold swimming competitions in the river without any fear. It’s quite possible that the crocodiles from neighbouring rivers such as the Walawe might have moved to the Nilwala as they gradually lose much of their habitat.

Locals told me there are more crocodiles now, and also that people throw their rubbish, from fish parts and meat, into the water, attracting these giant reptiles and making them lose the fear of humans. This, in turn, imprints in their brain the link between easy food and people, making them swim toward human-habituated areas.

I heard some uncanny tales about how meat shops and even funeral parlours disposed of their waste into this precious water resource, which is now bearing the impacts of pollution and also giving rise to conflicts between man and crocodile.

To prevent crocodile attacks, there are several “croc-proof fences” set up on the riverside, enabling people to bathe in the river. But most that I saw were derelict and in need of repair. Still, I saw people bathing outside the fences, at ease with the river and the lurking dangers.

There are also some barriers across the river upstream using sandbags, an attempt to contain the flow of brackish and saltwater upstream with the tide. The effects of this project need to be assessed along with its environmental impact on the wildlife and fish in this river ecosystem, as well as the livelihood of the fishermen living downstream, and the impact this barrier has when rainfall is at an all-time high and large volumes of water flow downstream.

The Nilwala ecosystem has prevailed and persisted over centuries without disturbance. But its survival and continuity into the future depend on the sustainable strategies adopted by the authorities. The conflict between humans and crocodiles need to be carefully studied and addressed to avoid human deaths while the largest reptile we have known is allowed to survive in the fabled river. The call is for coexistence and not extinction.

The Sri Lankan Green Pit Viper (Trimeresurus trigonocephalus) is the island’s most iconic snake species. This beautiful endemic reptilian species is a moderately venomous snake with beautiful colouration and appearance. Usually, arboreal and nocturnal species descend occasionally to the ground in search of food. This pit viper is relatively sluggish and is usually encountered in low shrubs during the morning hours.

They are widely distributed in all climatic zones of the island except the high hills, which have an altitude of above 1000 meters above sea level, and very arid zones. They are most common in the wet zone rainforests and grasslands and also in plantations. Being from the viper family they produce live young, usually in the months of June -July where the brood size ranges from 5 to 30 animals. They use their colouration to camouflage and usually makes every effort to escape or avoid confrontation. The venom is potent but rarely causes fatalities in people.

Horton plains are all that remains of the once vast expanse of the “Maya Rata” or the Maya Kingdom named by the ancient kings of old, a land filled with deep dense forests, misty highlands and respected and preserved as an important region as the headwaters of three of Sri Lanka’s major rivers the Mahaweli, Kelani and Walawe. Over time, with the colonization of the island by the British, these once sacred and protected lands were cleared out to grow coffee and thereafter tea. The once pristine “cloud forests” were now covered in green tea fields. What remained of most of the wildlife from elephants, leopards, bears and much more either died out or moved down to the lowlands.

The expansion of man even post-independence has resulted in a small and fragmented habitat in the clouds. Of which one of the most well-known and often visited locations is Horton Plains, National Park.

A high elevation plateau located in the central highlands, these lands visited by the English explorers revealed a land lost in time. Of misty rolling plains, home to vast herds of Sambhur, Sri Lanka’s largest species of deer, and many other natural wonders.

Horton Plains is one of Sri Lanka’s most visited tourist sites and very popular with local visitors as well. Namely due to the scenic landscapes, as well as the walk to the “Worlds End View Point” a sheer cliff point at one corner of the park which showcases stunning views as far as the eyes can see, as well as Bakers Falls, named after the notorious English hunter Sir Samuel Baker.

With an average elevation of 2000-2300 meters above Sea Level, these lands were once home to large herds of elephants, but over time with constant hunting, the giants of the land were either wiped out completely or driven down to the lowlands.

And yet, what remains are truly wondrous. The plant life is unlike any other found on the island, with most of the trees, shrubs and plants found here being endemic to Sri Lanka. These highlands are home to a vast array of unique endemic, resident and migrating birdlife.

Many of the endemic birds of the island are found here, including the Sri Lanka Scaly Thrush, Dull Blue Fly Catcher, and Yellow Eared Bulbul. The two most sought after and equally highly elusive are the Sri Lanka Bush Warbler and the legendary Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush also known as the “Arrenga”

The grasses on the open plains are vital grazing grounds for Sambhur the largest deer species in Sri Lanka. And among the grass and the dense forests lies a secret predator. The Sri Lankan Leopard is the undisputed king of these plains. And yet, many do not know of their existence.

The leopards of Horton Plains seem to be large and have broader facial structures compared to their lowland counterparts. The cold weather and abundance of high-quality protein in the form of Sambhur may have resulted in these physiological changes.

Despite their size, the tall grass easily conceals their presence as they can easily crouch and stalk through these tussocks without detection to man or Sambhur.

These mysterious predators venture down to the villages and towns lower down seeking easy livestock from time to time such as goats, chicken and even village dogs.

Research published by Webb et al in 2020 using a camera trap study in 2017 and 2018 showed density estimates of 10-15 leopards per 100 square KM.

Catching a glimpse of, let alone a good photograph of these elusive big cats is an almost impossible task. And yet for those with experience and a good pair of “eyes” luck can run in one’s favour from time to time. 

Often seen on the fringes of the forest edge, these cats use these areas as good vantage points. Further, any unusual blobs or colour variations in the grass need to be kept a close eye on. The best evidence of their presence is with the alarm calls of the Sambhur and the Purple Faced Leaf Monkeys, who are all prey species of the leopard. Predicting their location based on these alarm call is a challenge altogether, as sometimes these animals give out the alarm if they get a smell of the leopards’ presence rather than a visual of them. Further Sambhur behaviours such as the tail being raised or foot stops are signs they are alarmed.

If one is truly lucky, the drives up and down between the Pattipola and Ohiya entrances can give chance to find a leopard crossing the road right in front of you. These are extremely rare and once in a lifetime encounters. Usually, they are so sudden one takes a few seconds to catch one’s bearings and mostly no time to take a photograph.

One of the last wilderness refuges in the mountains of the island, Horton Plains remains a fragile and sensitive ecosystem that requires stringent protection and conservation efforts to preserve it for future generations.

Throughout the years the tusked males of Sri Lanka have been diminishing gradually, due to many reasons. From the times of the kings of old, the elephants of Sri Lanka were prized and hence many were exported to neighbouring kingdoms. More tuskers were prized as beasts of war and stately purposes which also could have affected the wildlife population. Finally, as the colonials arrived, elephants were considered vermin and they were killed in their thousands for sport and pleasure. Among those killed the tusker would be a prized trophy hence targeted even more. Post-independence many land management and allocation projects further marginalized the wild elephant populations. Big elephant drives such as the ones with the Deduru Oya herds further resulted in the deaths of tuskers and elephants alike. As a result of these actions, we now end up with a small fraction of the tuskers that would have been roaming the island. Instead, we have mostly tuskless bulls or “Makhnas” as they are referred to in mainland India. The superior feature of ivory on these bull elephants is gradually being lost through time.

Tuskers constitute only a very small proportion of the entire elephant population and are scattered across the dry zones of our country. To encounter one in the wild is extremely rare, and when I do find one, the spiritual and emotional connection I have when making eye contact with him is beyond words. I sometimes feel they are trying to tell me something, perhaps they know that their days in this land are numbered and that their future is uncertain.

It may come as a surprise to many that the majority of tuskers and elephants are found outside the protected national parks and sanctuaries. These giants are scattered across small pockets of forests that are surrounded by an ocean of human settlements. When I venture into certain areas in search of them, I am in shock that such large animals could live in such a small space just next to a busy, bustling town. This is the harsh reality these elephants have to face.

Over the decades the habitats of these animals have shrunk whilst thousands of human settlements have sprung up around them. This isolation has resulted in the loss of lives from both sides of the fence. Due to sheer desperation, the villagers in the conflict areas have resorted to drastic means of retaliation such as the use of the dreaded “Hakka Pattas” which is a small homemade explosive which is hidden among vegetables, waiting to explode in the mouth of an unknowing animal. The death from such a device is astoundingly agonizing, and it takes days to finally succumb to the horrific injuries. In turn, villagers may lose their fathers, mothers and children overnight when they are caught unawares by a marauding pachyderm. I personally feel this is a war in which we cannot blame any side, as both are placed in a situation of utter desperation and hopelessness.

When I think about the plight of the wild tuskers, I sense a very heavy feeling in my heart, because I know their future is unsure. Do tuskers and elephants still have a place in a fast developing Sri Lanka? Will he have a future where the only remaining tuskers are those poor creatures who spend their lives in chains and occasionally parade themselves in lit-up costumes to appease a nation’s view on culture? These are questions to which I do not hold the answer.

The fate of the tuskers and all other wildlife lies in the hands of every Sri Lankan, not only the poor villagers or those that are in power. It is within every one of us.  The deciding decade is upon us, and the choice is ours to make.

Not everyo ne wants to check these fearsome creatures out, but as a photographer, I find saltwater or estuarine crocodiles quite fascinating to watch. The largest reptile on Earth, the saltwater croc (Crocodylus porosus), known as Geta Kimbula in Sinhalese, can grow to lengths surpassing 6 meters (20 feet). This prehistoric creature is the apex predator of riverine ecosystems, found in a vast region around the world, including Sri Lanka, India, Papua New Guinea and the Indo–Pacific, all the way to Australia.

In Sri Lanka, they’re not as common as the Mugger Crocodile (Crocodylus Palustris), also known as the Marsh Cro codile. Saltwater Crocodiles are found in estuaries and riverine systems mainly on Sri Lanka’s south, west and eastern coasts. Sometimes they can even be found in urban areas such as the nation’s commercial capital, Colombo, moving around the canals and wat erways in the city. Some specimens have been seen out at the ocean and even in locations such as suburban Dehiwala-Mount Lavinia, as the crocodiles move between rivers using the ocean as a connector.

In Pappearance they are easily identifiable from the mugger crocodile. The head of the mugger is much wider, while the saltwater crocodile’s head tapers toward the snout. The neck of a saltwater croc or “saltie” doesn’t contain any prominent scales compared to the mugger. The mugger is usually greyish in colour, while the saltie has a yellowish hue on the body, especiallycontrast, salties are aggressive and there are many cases of deaths recorded due to their attacking behaviour.

the belly. The sides of the belly have rough scales similar to the texture of a jackfruit.

It’s in their temperament where the two species differ the most. Muggers are generally timid; only a few attacks on people have been recorded. In

Fables about crocodiles swimming in the Nilwala River in southern Sri Lanka’s Matara district are legendary and have influenced both folk tales and folk songs. Of late, the Nilwala and the crocodiles that inhabit the river have been the subject of news, with people being attacked and killed by the riverside.

Such is the saltie’s unparalleled reputation, I took off to the island’s southern coast in search of these magnificent reptiles myself. With the help of local boatmen, I embarked on my first self-styled “crocodile safari” in 2016. The boat ride did not take too long to yield up the first saltie.

It was a small individual, rather shy, and went quickly underwater before we could draw close. We soon realized that there were many crocodiles hiding in the riverbanks and mangro

ves, mostly in plain sight, but they would quickly go underwater whenever we drew close to them, most of them semi-adults or juveniles.

Going further upriver, we were amazed at the vast variety of birdlife that formed part of this unique ecosystem, ranging from stork-billed kingfishers (Pelargopsis Capensis), common kingfishers (Alcedo atthis), striated herons (Butorides Striata) and purple herons (Ardea Purpurea), to white-bellied fish eagles (Haliaeetus leucogaster), Gray-Headed fish eagles (Haliaeetus Ichthyaetus) and many more.

The further ups

tream we went, the less populated it became, and there were some areas covered in fast reed beds with no humans in sight. It was in one such area that we came across a large male crocodile swimming across the river. This giant individual measured about 4.5 meters (15 feet) in length. He displayed his dominance over the river by swimming with his head and tail raised high above the water. It was amazing to witness this top predator of the river in its natural habitat, proud and strong. Being in a boat almost at the croc’s eye level gave me an uneasy feeling.

The boat people told me about an even bigger crocodile often seen in the Nilwala, more than 5.5 meters (18 feet) in length. Though we didn’t see him during my first tour, I continued to visit the river over the years and, on one occasion, came across this legendary reptile.

He’d crawled up to a riverbank to bask in the afternoon as crocs do, and could have easily been mistaken for a massive log, given his tremendous size and the colour camouflage. This croc was spellbinding, and I felt privileged to have seen such a giant croc, a rarity these days.

He was as wide as our boat, and as we approached closer, he slid calmly back into the water and disappeared, without trying to overpower us. During my many tours to Matara, I also came across many hatchlings, indicating a healthy population in this ecosystem. One tour up the river gave me a count of 21 individuals.

More croc attacks are being reported, but local people told me that 20 years ago this wasn’t the case. Boatmen have told me that they used to hold swimming competitions in the river without any fear. It’s quite possible that the crocodiles from neighbouring rivers such as the Walawe might have moved to the Nilwala as they gradually lost much of their habitat.

Locals told me there are now more crocodiles, and also that people throw their rubbish, from fish parts and meat, into the water, attracting these giant reptiles and making them lose their fear of humans. This, in turn, imprints in their brain the link between easy food and people, making them swim toward human-habituated areas.

I heard some uncanny tales about how meat shops and even funeral parlours disposed of their waste into this precious water resource, which is now bearing the impacts of pollution and also giving rise to conflicts between man and crocodile.

To prevent crocodile attacks, there are several “croc-proof fences” set up on the riverside, enabling people to bathe in the river. But most that I saw were derelict and in need of repair. Still, I saw people bathing outside the fences, at ease with the river and the lurking dangers.

There are also some barriers across the river upstream using sandbags, an attempt to contain the flow of brackish and saltwater upstream with the tide. The effects of this project need to be assessed along with its environmental impact on the wildlife and fish in this river ecosystem, as well as the livelihood of the fishermen living downstream, and the impact this barrier has when rainfall is at an all-time high and large volumes of water flow downstream.

The Nilwala ecosystem has prevailed and persisted over centuries without disturbance. But its survival and continuity into the future depend on the sustainable strategies adopted by the authorities. The conflict between humans and crocodiles need to be carefully studied and addressed to avoid human deaths while the largest reptile we have known is allowed to survive in the fabled river. The call is for coexistence and not extinction.

Located at the border of the Katagamuwa side of the famous Yala National Park, this luxury camp encompasses the concept of “Glamping” perfectly. The drive to the camp itself is an adventure, as you are escorted by jeep, through thick bushes, as the camp is located in the Kochchipaththana sanctuary and hence teeming with wildlife. The owners of the camps are all seasoned safari guides and experts in bush-craft and tracking giving visitors a world-class wildlife experience. The camp itself is beautifully designed, blending nature with minimalist style. The tents are very large and spacious, with large king-size beds, lounge sofas, air conditioning and so much more. The tent opens out to a large verandah with each having their own private plunge pool, a perfect way to relax and rewind after a long game drive. The cuisine in the camp is made in-house with an expert chef and serves some mouthwatering cuisine right in the heart of the wilderness. The safaris are the highlight of your stay in Ceylon Wild and guided by seasoned wildlife professionals you see nature in a whole new light. From wonders of the termite to the various medicinal uses of plants and trees, reading the tracks on the ground all which brings one a whole new perspective to a wildlife safari, only possible thanks to the seasoned rangers/guides of the camp. In the evening, at dusk, once you exit from the park gates the safari is not yet over, as the journey to the camp can reveal some surprises like a leopard on the track or a sloth bear or even an elephant. Once back at camp, sitting by a bonfire and listening to the calls of the wild and discussing with fellow guests and your hosts about the tales of the wild almost takes one back in time to the hunters and explorers of this wild land hundreds of years ago.

You can also enjoy a morning bush walk with your guide/ranger, which gets you much closer to the wild experience rather than being on a safari jeep. Your guide will teach how to read the jungle signs such as the mud on the bark of the tree signifying an elephant has rubbed its back or the many types of footprints on the walking trails which reveal a whole new perspective into the world of nature. A truly authentic wildlife experience, Ceylon Wild Safaris combines stylish luxury with immersive wilderness into a truly unforgettable experience.

 

When one thinks of wild felines of Sri Lanka the leopard may come first into ones mind. But there is a more elusive and secretive cat out there. The Jungle Cat is a small species of cat found in scattered populations in the dry zones of the island. Along with the Fishing Cat and Rusty Spotted Cat this is one of the three species of wild cat found in Sri Lanka while the Leopard being categorized as a Big Cat. Known as “Kola Diviya” and “Wal Balala” this smaller species is known more by reputation than by actual sightings. The sightings themselves are known to be very brief given the shy nature of these felines.

One of the best places which I have heard of to have a fair population of Jungle Cat is Udawalawe National Park. With determination to somehow photograph one of these shy cats I set off on an expedition. I was joined by Lionel an expert tracker and seasoned ranger of the park. We scoured the land with sharp eyes looking in all directions, when suddenly our safari driver hit the brakes and we turned left to see a small cat running away into the bushes. The cat had been sitting out in the open, when it panicked and ran for cover on sight of our jeep. We decided to wait patiently with a hope that the Jungle Cat might come out. Lionel taught me the signs of the cat’s presence which are the loud alarm calls of small birds which often fall prey to these silent predators. After a long wait, we spotted some movement in the bushes, and out came not one but three jungle cats. From what we understood it was a mother with two semi adult kittens. Being from the cat family the kittens were playful, but all three were quite shy and skittish to our presence and upon noticing our vehicle ran back for cover.

The next day while moving around the same road we came across another cat sitting in the bushes. After reversing back to the spot we saw it slowly got up and walked away, giving us a few glances. This was a larger cat and probably a male, and stood around 13 inches on the shoulder. With long legs the Jungle Cat is a streamlined hunter and has a unique feature of having ear tufts on the tips of its ears.

In the afternoon while on safari, Lionel spotted another cat fast asleep under some bushes. Like any house cat who sleeps after a meal this Jungle Cat was oblivious to our presence. Quietly we observed it in slumber. After some time it slowly woke up and stretched itself, suddenly realizing our presence which startled it. After staring at us for a few seconds the cat made a retreat deep into the bush. In the evening we saw another cat long a safari trail walking along the road. We followed it for over 1 km before it went back into the bushes.

I never expected such luck in my sightings which were thanks to my trusty tracker Lionel and our safari driver Sanath who both worked together to scour the land in search of these elusive felines. From this tour it is evident that there is a fairly high number of Jungle Cats found in Udawalawe which is a welcome attraction in addition to the large number of elephants seen throughout the year in the park.

Words and Photos by Rajiv Welikala